This course is a thorough introduction to woodcarving.
Although I aim this course at complete beginners and assume no previous knowledge of woodcarving, carvers with some experience will find a lot here in the way of fundamental techniques and approaches that will make it well worth their while coming along.
Topics that we will cover include: sharpening, carving grips, efficient means of working with the tools, 'lining in', 'setting in', low relief, high relief, modelling, detailing and much more.
I myself will be resident at the college and available at mealtimes and evenings to talk carving - so do come along!
West Dean College is a magnificent place with great facilities and to my mind very reasonable pricing.
The website is well worth looking around, both for information about the Edward James Foundation, with it's history of art and craft patronage and support, and the many other excellent craft courses that you can take there.
I've written about it extensively and shown hundreds of people how to do it. I've even made a DVD about it. Yet I still get emails from carvers who find sharpening their tools an unsatisfying experience; anything from a chore to a misery.
Here's the deal:
I've often said that to carve well, you must be able to sharpen your carving tools correctly, properly.
Why 'must'?
And what does 'properly' mean?
Must
The relationship between your carving tools and yourself is like a musician playing their instrument: you cannot separate the instrument from the music.
It's not just that you need your carving tools to carve, but your carving tools cannot to be separated from the act of carving itself.
In the same way that the state of the instrument and it's tuning significantly influences the quality of sound coming out, the state of your carving tools - how they have been sharpened - will significantly affect your carving.
If a musician wants to progress and play to their heart's content, they will get a decent instrument, learn how to tune it and always look after it.
If you want to progress in carving you must get 'decent' tools, and learn to sharpen and look after them. That's it; bottom line. Tuning is what musicians do; sharpening is what woodcarvers do.
If you can't do it, then you've got problems which you could well do without as a woodcarver. That's why I'm saying 'must'.
I think most beginners understand what I'm getting at here and probably hate me banging on. It's the next bit that they struggle with: What exactly do I need to do when it comes to sharpening? What is this sharpen 'properly' anyway? And how do I achieve it?
Properly
The word literally means: 'in the right manner', 'appropriate for the purpose'.
Your carving tools have to be able to do certain things as efficiently as possible.
But what exactly?
Here's the first thing to realise: different carvers work in different ways.
Me? I use the corners of the cutting edge a lot for example, so I keep them for most of my carving. And, to me, this way of sharpening my gouges gives me maximum efficiency and possibilities of working with the tools. So this is what I offer.
See here for a downloadable summary of what I consider to be the 'features of a correctly sharpened gouge' - in effect where you want to get to.
When I show someone how I sharpen a gouge I always say something like: 'Start here and feel free to experiment and change when you know different'. I also have tools with different configurations for different purposes. Other carvers too prefer a different way of working, perhaps liking to 'roll' the cutting edge rather than use the corners, for example. Thus they prefer to round-over the corners and have the cutting edge protrude in the middle ('nosed'). How I, or they, choose to work and what we want to do with the tools is a personal choice.
And that's the point: choice.
Back to the instrument analogy: What key do you want to play in? You tune the instrument to that.
The 'key' I suggest in the download, my books etc. and my DVD is one I've found suits me for the majority of carving tunes. Start there unless or until you know differently what 'right manner' of sharpening will suit you.
And how do you actually go about getting that proper configuration of the cutting edge?
Again, I present this elsewhere and it will be a waste of this space to go over it again.
Let me just give you:
2 big points and 1 bit of practical advice:
1: I don't care.
You can sharpen by hand on benchstones. You can use honing wheels. You can use a house brick tied to a pineapple. I don't really care how you get there (and I've told you where you want to get to), as long as you do.
There is no moral highground in any one approach. The essential thing is getting the tool working as efficiently as possible. What matters at the end of the day is the result: your finished work. The tools are merely a means to the end. If the method you use doesn't get you what you need, change it.
2: Skill
Sharpening is a skill. You need to learn it and practice it. Carve (and therefore sharpen) every day and you'll soon get on top of it. Carve once a month and give little attention to sharpening and you'll struggle.
3: Bevels
Sharpening means controlled removal of metal, in specific amounts and in specific places, until you get what you want.
The only place you remove it from is the bevel (outside or inside). The cutting edge arises from this.
You don't sharpen the edge; you sharpen the bevel.
Sharpening, as a skill, is not a big one compared to carving itself.
If you know you have it in you to carve, then you certainly can get that sharpening under your belt...